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Men's Dress Shirts: Styles & Trends

By Andrew Stratton
Dec 31, 2008
Cuff, collar, buttons, placket-wait, placket? The world of men's dress shirts can be the most daunting to its intended audience. Few men have the time or desire to understand the structure, components, and trends in current menswear. In fact, men are among the rare creatures that confidently purchase garments without stepping foot into a fitting room. A medium is a medium, right?

While men's dress shirts tend to fall into more rigid and reliable sizing rules than women's clothing, there are still a few things to consider before grabbing a bundle of white collared shirts and calling it a day. Trends in colors, fabrics, patterns, and how men's dress shirts are worn have also evolved considerably over time. To avoid looking hopelessly outdated, you might want to brush up on the ins and outs of current menswear styles.

Sizing has remained fairly standard over the years, but don't think that just because you have a thin frame a size small will fit you properly. Men's shirts have two main measurements: the neck width and the sleeve length. The neck is usually the first measurement on the shirt label, while the sleeve is located below.

Unlike women's clothing, the width of the shoulders and waist are not taken into account. Additional notes on the shirt tag, such as "fitted" or "full-cut" identify how baggy or slim the garment is tailored. These notations will vary by designer, so it is a good idea to try on a few different styles if you're particular about how a shirt hangs on your body.

Colors and pattern trends have greatly shifted over the years. A crisp, stark white shirt will probably not impress a potential employer as much as it will make you look like a waiter. For the advanced, choose palettes that compliment your complexion, skin and eye coloring.

If you're the type of guy who can't see the difference between olive and chartreuse, stick with universally complimentary colors such as blues and grays. They have enough punch to make you look fresh but won't be distracting. Patterns can be difficult to pair with ties, pants, and jackets, so be prepared to put effort into planning the complete outfit.

How you wear a dress shirt is almost as important as what it looks like. In the past, it was customary to tuck it in, button it up to the top, and top the look with a matching tie. While still clean and formal, this look can be too stuffy for many occasions. Tucking in a shirt without a tie and leaving the top button undone is casual but still dressed up enough to make a good impression.

For even less formal situations, a dress shirt still looks hip if it is left untucked and gives the body a leaner, longer appearance. If you're unsure about what's appropriate, better to go overdressed (or at least have an emergency tie waiting in the car).

While you don't have to know what a placket is to pick out fashionable men's dress shirts (it's the extra thick strip of fabric where the buttons are placed), knowing a few trend and size guidelines can help you keep in touch with the current styles.
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