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Stub Grafting
For Stub grafting pieces of one-year-old healthy wood, about six buds long, are then prepared with the base cut into the shape of a wedge. The lateral branch to be grafted is then cut on its upper side, starting inch away from the main branch and extending to the base almost as far as the centre of the lateral shoot.
Sometimes, because the bark has been removed right the way round the tree to the width of several inches, the specimen has died. It is therefore important when trying to renovate an orchard to do three things: (1) to wire right round the orchard or round the individual trees so as to prevent bark nibbling; (2) to clean up the wounds thus made with a knife and paint over with a thick white-lead paint, Grafting Wax Indasco or even Vaseline; and (3) in bad cases, to carry out bridge-grafting during the months of March or April, depending on when the bark lifts lightly away from the wood.
Care must be taken to see that when the lateral is released that it springs back into position and grips the scion properly. The extension of the stub is then cut of just above the graft.
An upside down 'T'-shaped cut is then made in the healthy bark above the wound and a T-shaped cut made in the bark below the wound. The two ends of the grafts are then pushed into their respective T-shaped cuts with the buds the right way up. The cuts are then tightly wound round with raffia, and are painted over with grafting wax.
A cut is then made into the side of the branch at an angle of about 20 degrees and to a depth of about a quarter of the diameter of the branch itself. This cut is then opened up by bending the branch slightly and the wedge-like end of the scion is then inserted.
Various methods of grafting are adopted by fruit growers but perhaps the two simplest are those known as Stub grafting and Side grafting. These plans allow the bulk of the branch to be left. All the maiden shoots and spurs, however, are removed as well as the top portion of each branch, to a spot where this is 2 inches in diameter. That is to say, you remove from the tree the bulk of the material, leaving a skeleton of branches forming a framework on to which the grafting can be done. In the case of Stub grafting the lateral branches varying from inch to 1 inch in diameter are retained wherever it is necessary to have a lateral branch of the new variety. In the case of Side grafting no lateral shoots are needed.
About the Author When planting a fruit tree in your garden, water thoroughly then fill in soil mix to the top.
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