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How To Read The Lane For Bowling Success
Almost every bowling lane differs greatly from every other, with marked effect on the ball's action. Here's how to compensate.
Bowling would be far too easy if all you had to do was to throw the ball and chalk up strikes, regardless. But that is even more unlikely than a naturally purple cow. You won't be far from the truth if you say: "every lane is different." Actually, it isn't 100 per cent true, but invariably you will find that whenever you're on a pair of lanes, they do differ.
Some lanes "run out the window." You have no trouble getting a hook on the ball; instead you get far too much hook. Another lane "holds." Your ball doesn't hook much; you have a difficult time making it come up into the pocket.
These are the main differences in lanes but, fortunately, there are lanes which hook neither too much nor too little but are just right for you. Look back at those last two words. And remember that a lane which is just right for you may not be just right for other members of your team, so don't give them a bad time just because you're having a hot night.
Bowlers learn to govern their standard delivery on a bowling lane which is natural for them. As a result, the first ball you throw on any lane should be from your normal position. Only after observing the ball's action should you move. Here is the basic rule for moving.
If the ball is coming up too much or crossing over, then move slightly to the left and use the same spots you did before.
This is for lanes which are called "slow."
(For spot bowling, you take into consideration the spot down lane from which your ball breaks toward the pocket. In most instances, it's about two thirds of the distance down the lane and certainly not as far to look as the No. 1 pin.
Depending upon just how much your ball breaks, you draw an imaginary line all the way down from where you take your stance. Then, looking at the spot from which your ball breaks, you move directly to the foul line, release the ball and cause it to go directly over your spot. Some bowlers find this method of "spotting" to their advantage; others still find this spot a bit too far out on the lane.)
If the ball isn't coming up to the No. 1 or head pin, then move to the right slightly and cross your usual spot. This is for lanes that are called "fast."
There also is another way, one which quite a few of the topnotch bowlers use.
Instead of immediately moving to the left when a lane is slow, you move your spot slightly to the right and start from the same place on the approach.
Likewise, if the lane is fast, you move your spot slightly to the left and start from the same place.
If it's hooking too much. I usually move my spot slightly to right, rather than my feet.
NEVER make a radical move, whether it's in your spot or the position of your feet. You'll find that one board can make a great deal of difference.
The longer you have bowled-and under adverse conditions-the more you learn about what your ball will do. It's the mark of a champion when guy or gal can throw one ball and immediately make the proper adjustment.
Probably the last resort in finding the strike pocket is to vary the speed of your ball. In other words, slow it up slightly if you are not coming up to the head pin and increasing speed if you're continually crossing over.
However, this definitely is contrary to basic rules which call for a bowler to master a smooth delivery and stay with it.
Experience will teach you how to read the bowling lane, and then compensate appropriately.
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